Aquatic Tourist Prison

Hey everyone


As stated before, we have just returned from Halong Bay. Continuation of this subject will restart in a few sentences, but for now let me just say that I have sustained major trauma and carnage from the over friendliness of my right calf and the exhaust pipe of our motorbike "the red wave." Yes, its true... I managed to burn the shit out of my leg... it didnt hurt at the time, but now I have massive burns in the shape of a pig snout.. Looks like I am gonna have brand number two (or three depending on who you ask). Anyway, I am keeping it clean and should remain gangrene free. Being a road warrior has taken a toll on me. By the way, Phuong took us to the museum in Hanoi during rush hour a few days ago and i was initiated into Road Warrior status through trial by fire. We are talking skinny winding roads, huge busses, cows, carts, no traffic laws, no traffic lights, no traffic signs, no lanes, and 3000 motorbikers... plus we three idiot americans.. It was such a rush!! I am in love with the "red wave" and will be purchasing one when I get back. So much better than a car!

Ok now for the resuming of Halong Bay.

The bay is beautiful. over 1000 limestone islands rising out of green water. Unfortunately, it is so beautiful that the tourist industry has taken a major toll on the natural beauty. There are scores of "junks" which are really just highly polluting motor boats with sails that only go up when it is a major photo opportunity. The bay is quite littered and many indigenous people row small boats packed with random junk food, cigarettes, and "cold beer" (cold is not so cold in Vietnam we have learned). However, the place is still killer and is on the mend now that UNESCO has stepped in and converted much of the bay into a world heritage site. This has helped the people continue their fishing lifestyle and deterred tourism from killing the mangrove and coral forests. Halong Bay is full of "floating villages" which are literally boats with houses on them where communities of people fish and live. They are not particularly pretty, but they are incredibly interesting. We went kayaking in the bay this morning in the midst of a floating village. It was slightly awkward invading their space, as people went about their business, cleaning their houses, throwing away the trash, and the such. There we are, american tourists who payed next to nothing, and we are floating outside the backs of their houses staring...

This is the last time we do a guided tour. It was very constricting, and it seemed to demean the power and beauty of the bay. It felt like a bad day excursion from a cruise ship.. Remember "who let the dogs out" mom and dad? It was kinda like that.


So we fly to Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon) tomorrow night, which will be a whole new experience. Cant believe we have only been here 5 days... So much has happened. I still cant believe I am here.

Love you all and cant wait to read the comments.. Keep em coming!

J